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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.